Deb Canham: Decorative Serging

Renowned for her expertise in serger techniques, Deb Canham is a notable educator and designer who focuses on helping people to get the most out of their sergers. She travels around the US as a Baby Lock educator, conducting workshops at various stores and events, as well as sharing her amazing patterns. When working on her projects, Deb embraces the use of heavy weight decorative threads, skillfully crafting intricate and artistic designs. Her distinctive style is characterized by her ingenious combination of diverse materials, patterns, and vibrant colors. We got the chance to learn more about Deb, and her work with serging in this weeks Serger Month interview!

Deb began her journey with serging when she decided to get back into teaching following a bit of a hiatus. She purchased a domestic serger, due to their ability to stitch well with the thick, decorative threads she enjoys working with. After purchasing the serger Deb realized there was very few resources for learning how to use it. Working with her serger taught her that there was so much more to it than just stitching seams or finishing garments. She found so much joy in decorative serging, laying down many colours of thread much like an artist working with paint. This, along with the lack of resources for learning to work with sergers, inspired her to travel, teach, and share her knowledge with a wider audience.

 Deb explained that now a days she uses her serger more than her sewing machine! “When I’m going to make something, I ask which machine will make it better, and it’s usually the serger”. This is partially due to her love of decorative threads. The serger loopers allow her to work with the thick threads she prefers more easily, “the whole point is the thread”. Although she mentioned that 12wt threads are the easiest for beginners to work with, she favors 8wt! Specifically, Eleganza™ (our 8wt perlé cotton), and Razzle™ (our 8wt rayon). These threads are thick and stand out making her stitches pop more! Eleganza™ is also extremely strong, and easy to work with even when threading it through the serger needle. When choosing threads, it’s important to consider what the project calls for. If you are working on something like a braided handle, you want to use a strong, durable threads like Eleganza™. If you want to add shine, or sparkle to a coat Razzle™ or Dazzle™ may be better suited! Rayon threads are a bit harder to work with, mainly when being used in the needle. But they make for an eye catching and unique look. Deb highlighted how important it is to experiment with different threads in the serger to see which you prefer to work with, and which have the look you want for a project.  

Deb’s Serger Tips

The number one tip that Deb highlighted was to “get educated”. When Deb started her journey with serging there were very few resources to look to for help. Which is what inspired her to become an educator and help people concur their fear of serging. Now there are many resources you can look to to learn more about your machine, and how to use it. For instance, Deb is starting a serger club that people can join to get continuous support when using their sergers and trying new techniques. In this club Deb will cover beginner and advanced projects once a month, getting people to commit to using their serger regularly. Another great way to get more comfortable with your machine is by doing small projects that are easy to complete. This will get you more familiar with your machine, while offering a sense of accomplishment once these projects are finished. Below we have linked a few of Deb’s projects that she recommends for beginners!

Another tip Deb shared pertained to how you load your fabric into your serger. “When you put your fabric in don’t just put it under the foot, get it right back to the needle”. This ensures that all of your feed dogs are working for you right away. Deb explained that the feed dogs are one of the best parts of a serger. As they make it so much easier to work quickly, and accurately since there are more of them on a serger than on a sewing machine. This tip helps you to take full advantage of what the serger can do.

Deb's ultimate objective was to inspire individuals to embrace the joy of serging without apprehension towards the machine. “It’s just a machine”! Experiment with different stitches, different projects, different threads. Serging can be so enjoyable when you commit to just playing. Utilize the serger on many projects, incorporating decorative stitches, using threads that excite and inspire you! Dedicate yourself to gaining knowledge about the machine and unleashing your artistic potential.

If you enjoyed this blog and want to learn more from Deb, be sure to visit her website, to browse her available patterns and tutorials! Deb teaches often throughout the US and is always updating her pattern catalogue. Follow her on Facebook or subscribe to her newsletter to stay up to date on her new projects, and upcoming classes.

Gail Yellen: Creative Serging

Gail Yellen, a renowned educator in the world of serging, continuously demonstrates her ingenuity and originality through her projects! She skillfully incorporates serging into various aspects of her work, be it for decorative or practical purposes. Her passion, however, truly lies in the art of decorative serging. We dove in to how she uses serging to add decorative touches to bags, home décor, clothing, quilts, and more!

Gail started her journey as a sewing educator after retiring from her career as a dental hygienist. She had been sewing her whole life, recalling that she played with a treadle sewing machine when she was in pre k under her mother’s supervision. Following her retirement, she started taking classes at her local quilting shop! When talking about the first class she took she said, “I learned more in 30 minutes than I had in my whole life”, and she became hooked. After becoming a regular at the shop, she was invited to help out packing orders and taking inventory. While working there she soaked in all the information she could. Listening to customer’s questions, sitting in on classes, and chatting with the other store employees. But what really changed the course of her sewing journey was discovering decorative serging. The first time she laid eyes on a serger she remembers thinking “wow those look very scary”! Although she was a bit apprehensive at first, she got a serger at the recommendation of fellow sewers. Quickly after starting to work with sergers, she fell in love with using them for adding decorative touches to almost anything. This is what launched her into her career, educating people on how to get the most out of their machines.

Why do you serge?

As Gail began to expand her knowledge of serging by learning from other people in the industry she realized how much sergers can do, that sewing machines can’t. Looking at samples from other creators inspired her to experiment more. She even mentioned seeing our samples and finding inspiration in them! “WonderFil® had the most beautiful samples, it was inspiring to see all the threads and all the things you can do”. Experimenting with different threads, stitches, and techniques has taught Gail a lot.

 Her favourite techniques, and stitches change regularly. Right now, her favourite stich is a wide flatlock stitch on her Bernina machine. “It is like 4 stitches in 1! You can do a flatlock with 8wt, you can do a reverse flatlock with different threading and different needles”. The versatility of this stitch makes it a great choice for many projects. Gail also loves doing raindrop stitches and blanket stitches to add accents to projects. She highlighted how much she loves to adjust stitches, often making them wider, to see how that changes the look. The customization of serger stitches is a great feature, which allows for more creativity and personalization. “You can make a stitch the exact way you want it to be”.

 The micro thread control is another function on her machine that allows her to further customize, or tweak stitches. This adjusts the amount of thread that is being fed into the loopers. Gail often increases the amount of thread being fed, which makes her stitches a bit flatter and wider. But you can also lower this depending on what look you prefer!

Gail’s Serger Tips

We asked Gail what her number one serger tip is! She said “test . . . test . . . test! And make samples before going on to the actual project fabric”. Even if you’re doing something simple, it’s important to double check the needle, the thread, and the machine settings. To ensure there isn’t anything that needs to be tweaked before starting your project. And be sure your sample is on the same materials you plan to use, “use the exact fabric, interface it or use batting, whatever you intend to use”. She also mentioned that if you make your samples out of 6” squares, then you can save the sample to use later for different projects. And for future reference, Gail suggests keeping a record of the settings that work best for you as you experiment with different stitches. She takes photos on her phone that show the tension, and any other relevant settings to refer to when doing similar projects later!

Gail pointed out how working with sergers can pose a challenge as they differ greatly from sewing machines.  To gain a better understanding and maintain your machine effectively, she suggests seeking assistance from a nearby dealer. “Find a dealer who is knowledgeable, and has a good service technician, many dealers offer lessons on the machine when you buy it too”! There are also so many groups on social media, especially Facebook, where you can post photos, ask for help, or meet other people learning to serge! These can be a great resource to look too while learning as well. Gail recommends investing in the best machine you can afford, use available resources to learn to use it, then just play! Experimentation is key. Play around with various threads and fabrics, tinker with settings, and explore new projects. Unleash your creativity and don’t be afraid.

What About The Thread

When choosing a thread for her projects Gail likes to get creative! Decorative threads can add a lot to a project and elevate it to a new level. “WonderFil® has wide variety of colours and types of thread to play with which makes it so easy to make things look beautiful”. It is also important to consider the thread quality! Using high quality thread is important when serging as the tension and speed you are working with is higher. So always use a thread you can rely on. Also be sure to consider what project you are working on, and what look you want. One of Gail’s favourite serger threads to work with is Spagetti™, our 12 wt long staple Egyptian cotton. Spagetti™ is perfect for projects where Gail wants a more “country feel”, as it is a cotton with a matte finish. This thread is bold, strong, and low lint making it a great option for serging. Cotton threads are also extremely beginner friendly, and stitch well in most machines!

She also enjoys working with our 8wt rayon threads. One of her favorites is Razzle™, an 8wt rayon that has a stunning sheen, bringing an added level of interest to any stitch. It works wonders for decorative serger stitches when you desire a touch more shine than what a cotton thread can offer. Another great choice is Dazzle™, our 8wt rayon twisted with one strand of metallic, it is an ideal choice for holiday projects that call for a little bit of sparkle. Gail frequently turns to both of these threads when she wants her stitches to truly stand out.

If you enjoy playing with different threads as much as Gail does, check out her Thread Fusion stand. This extra special thread stand allows you to blend together multiple threads, to create your own unique thread. Simply place the threads into the stand, then thread them into the machine together! Add metallic touches to matte cottons, or customize colours to make the perfect threads for your project.

Are you interested in learning more from Gail? Check out her website where she posts upcoming classes she will be teaching, as well as where you can shop her products! Or visit her YouTube channel, where she posts video tutorials and does lives to share her techniques. Her new series, Serger Savvy, is live the 2nd Tuesday of every month. In these lives Gail answers questions sent in by her audience and added in the chat!

Angela Wolf: Serging for Function & Fashion

For this Serger Month interview, we had the chance to sit down with Angela Wolf and discuss how she utilizes serging to create stunning garments! It’s not just about the functional stitching; it’s also about getting creative with decorative stitches and threads. Angela has been designing and constructing garments her whole life, as well as teaching, hosting shows, and creating educational content online focused on using sergers to construct and decorate garments. Angela previously hosted sewing focused TV shows, and was featured as a teacher on Craftsy. Traveling all over the world to share her knowledge, at in person shows and through her digital presence. She is the perfect person to look to for anyone who wants to learn how to use their sergers for more than just structural work!

Of course, as a clothing maker, Angela highlighted how important it is to have a serger. “For finishing seams, it’s a must!” She explained that sergers allow you to ensure that the inside of a garment looks as good as it does on the outside, with a professional and quality finish. Some projects can even be completed using strictly serging, such as leggings. But sergers can be used for a lot more than just crisp seams if you are willing to get creative and experiment. Angela also uses her serger to create quick and easy pintucks, as well as gathering fabric or creating pleats.

“Once you start playing with sergers you realize that they do so much”

Angela mentioned how great it can be to get a serger and just play around with it to learn more about what the machines can do. She aims to encourage people to step outside the box of just using sergers for finishing seams and explore the possibilities, especially when moving into the world of decorative serging, which opens up a whole new way to use your serger. For instance, she uses decorative stitching to add accents on garments or even to create her own fabrics. Often, she will cover a blank fabric with decorative stitching prior to making it into a garment, allowing her to further customize her projects. But she loves continuing to work with all the different functions and stitches to find new ways to use her serger.

“It's good to start small, teaching yourself how to use your machine and doing simple projects. First, learn how to thread your machine! It’s important to know how to properly position the threads, as well as which threads should be used in the loopers and needles.” Angela enjoys using SoftLoc™, our tex 35 wooly polyester thread, in her loopers but this thread cannot be used in the needle. So, she uses Designer™, our 40wt all-purpose polyester thread, in the needles. Learning these basics allows you to create a good base to expand upon. Angela recommends then working on simple projects. “Grab some fabric and make a pillow or something easy to get used to using the serger. Just try it!” Many people get nervous when working on sergers or trying to use the loopers, so this will help you get over these fears and finish some projects.

Angela’s number one tip for anyone new to serging is to always test your stitches “every fabric handles differently in the serger”. Even more so than on a sewing machine, stitches can very on different fabrics and require some fine tunning before starting any project. So be sure to always test all the stitches you will be using, on the fabric you intend to use so you can find the right settings prior to starting.  Especially when working with finicky fabrics such as silk, which Angela works with often for garments.

Thread is another important factor to consider when serging. Angela’s go to threads for structural work are SoftLoc™, for her loopers, and Designer™, in her needle. SoftLoc™ is a great choice for serging projects as it is extremely soft and has great coverage. “The softness of the thread is great for kid’s clothes and seams”.  Colour is also important when choosing a thread for garment construction as you often need your thread to perfectly match your fabric. Angela worked with us in creating the colours for SoftLoc™, so she knows it has all the colour variety she needs for any project. “When we were working on it, I looked through all the existing colours and added colours that were in style” to ensure there was a great selection of colours.

For decorative serging Angela likes to experiment with more decorative threads, “if you use basic thread all the time it’s boring”. She often uses GlaMore™, our 12wt rayon metallic, to add accents on garments with decorative serger stitches. Angela has even used GlaMore™ for rolled hems, to make them functional and fashionable.

If you want to learn more from Angela Wolf, check out her social media and website linked below to keep up with her classes and projects! Or look out for her new show “Fabric to Fashion” on Made Myself TV. This reality-style TV series showcases talented designers and sewists from around the globe!

6 Serging Tips From Pam Mahshie

Did you know that April is Serger Month? To celebrate we have interviewed some of the best serger experts to bring you hints, tips, and insights that can improve your serging! Be sure to stay tuned this month as we have four extra special interviews coming out throughout the month of April.

 First up, we had the privilege of chatting with Pam Mahshie from Bernina America about her work with sergers (aka Overlockers). Pam has been working in the industry for over 40 years and has a passion for showing creators how to use their machines in different and unique ways. Especially sergers! Since she helps to develop machines in her position at Bernina, she is very familiar with what they can do and how they can help people expand their creative horizons.

 When she got started in the industry, sergers were used in such a utilitarian way. But Pam learned very quickly they could be used for so much more, like decorative work and quilting! She was on the ground floor of expanding the uses of sergers, and teaching people how to experiment with them. Finding a passion for teaching people how to get creative.

 While chatting with Pam, we unearthed 6 of her best serger tips, that you can use in your own serger projects. Everything from how to get started, to how to become an expert!

1 Don’t Be Afraid of sergers!

“Number one don’t be afraid of sergers! If you let them take advantage of you, they will!”

 Pam explained that it’s natural to have some apprehension when working with a new machine! But once you can get over that sense of apprehension, there are so many creative ways you can use sergers in your sewing practice. “Any kind of new product, a car, a refrigerator, a serger, have some apprehension. What holds you back? Just yourself!”

As the Overock business manager for Bernina America, Pam aims to teach people how to work with their sergers and get comfortable using them. She highlighted how important it is to practice and explore by trying new things in every project. She said the best thing about serging is that you are always discovering new stitches, new techniques, and new ways to include serging in your projects. But you have to continue to push yourself!

 “Always try to push and do more to make the next thing you learn your favourite thing”.

2 Get to know your serger

Pam emphasized the numerous advancements in serger technology that have significantly reduced the intimidation factor associated with these machines. To fully leverage these features, it's essential to familiarize yourself with your specific machine. For example, air threading greatly simplifies the threading process, particularly for specific sequences. Likewise, larger screens equipped with helpful tips assist sewers in selecting stitches. Therefore, it's crucial to select the right serger for your needs and become acquainted with its features. The more familiar you are with your serger, the greater your capabilities with it will be. Additionally, Pam mentioned that it can be helpful to reach out to your dealer if you have questions. Many sewing shops have classes which teach you how to use your machine. Take advantage of these resources when you can! Or look into Bernina’s resources for their sergers. Pam and the Bernina team are always working to share their knowledge and educate people about serging!

3 Utilize Tools & Accessories

Pam noted how important it is to use the tools that come with your serger. Many sewers overlook the importance of such tools, or never learn to use them properly. Seger tools and accessories can really improve your experience and make for a better end product. She mentioned thread nets as an example! Thread nets come with most sergers and can be extremely helpful, especially when working with metallics. They help the thread to flow more easily into the machine and make for an easier serging experience. But often they get forgotten or left in the box!

4 Utilize the Versatility

Many people believe sergers have only a single function, but Pam explained that this is one of many myths that turn people off from working with sergers. Serger stitches are extremely versatile. Pam highlighted how much she uses her own serger! About 90% of her sewing is done on the serger rather than on her sewing machine. As you sew more with your serger you will find that the same stitch can have a different look depending on if you use the top or bottom side on your project. Even further you can easily adjust the width of your stitch, or the thread weight you are using to change up the look!

 When we asked Pam what her favourite serger technique is she said, “how do you pick just one, that’s what I like is that there doesn’t have to be just one”! There are two sides to a serger machine that both allow for very different stitches. The overlock side and the cover stitch side. It’s worthwhile to work extensively with both “sides” and see how they differ. Possibly finding a favourite technique for each side! Pam said she has different techniques she likes for either “side” of the machine.

5 Use the Right Thread

Pam uses many different WonderFil® threads, depending on what look she wants for a project. Highlighting that it’s important to consider what fabric you are working with, what stitch you’re using, and what you want your end result to be when choose a thread for your project. But her favourite thread to serge with is Spagetti™! This 12wt, long staple Egyptian cotton thread is a great choice for beginners and experts alike. 12wt threads are thick enough to have a big impact but are easy to work with in the serger. “12wt thread elevates the look of many stitches. Or you can take multiple threads and combine them!”

 It’s also important to work with strong threads, that won’t break or shred as you work. Pam mentioned this as well as she explained why she enjoys working with Spagetti™!

 “The twist on Spagetti™ is so strong! I have never had it break while working with it.”

6 Start Small

Many sewers have sergers sitting in their closet at home but have a hard time finding reasons to use them. Pam highlighted that once you find a reason to use your serger, even if it’s just in small ways, you’ll fall in love with it!

 Her favourite project to recommend to quilters, who have a hard time finding ways to use their sergers is attaching your binding. More specifically, using an iron fusible thread (like WonderFil’s Iron N’ Fuse™) in your lower loopers, and stitching around the edge of your quilt before attaching your binding. You can then fold your binding into place, and iron it down. The Iron N’ Fuse will hold the binding in place as you stitch and can be much more effective than pins or binding clips. This is a great beginner project, that Pam says will help you get the serger out of the closet and onto the sewing table.

Pam and the team over at Bernina are extremely passionate about sharing their knowledge! So, if you are looking for more serger tips they have plenty of resources you can look to. You can visit Bernina.com to learn more about their machines, and the features they offer. Or check out The Joy of Serging on YouTube, a series where they chat and sew with special guests to inspire sewers learning to work with the machines!