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WonderFil Specialty Thread Blog

WonderFil brings you the latest news, events, upcoming thread lines and special tips and advice. Follow WonderFil Specialty Threads on our social media: Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Pinterest, and Youtube.

Filtering by Tag: designer

How to Patch Jeans Without a Sewing Machine

Maura Kang

Have you got a pair of jeans that has a big hole in it? As trendy as that might look, sometimes you just want to close it back up again. I’ll share with you a super easy way to patch the tears in your jeans and you don’t even need a sewing machine! This is a great way to keep them out of the dump so you can keep wearing them for years to come.

Before starting, cut away any extra threads from the hole. Next, measure the size of the tear and cut out a piece from another piece of heavy fabric about an inch bigger on each size. The fabric can be another piece of denim or other thick material such as canvas. Pin it in place, making sure to space your pins slightly away from the hole.

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Now you’ll need the thread. I’ll be using this medium 40wt thread called Designer. It’s a strong polyester so it will help hold up to heavy use, and it’s has some stretch to it, so it will flex with the fabric. It also comes in 210 colours, so choose one that best matches the colour of your pants.

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Thread your needle and tie a knot on one end. Then place the smaller piece of fabric behind the hole so it’s fully covered. Take a stitch on one end of the hole so that the knot is hidden on the inside of the fabric. Then go across to the other side of the hole and make another small stitch, this time making sure to put the needle through second layer of fabric as well. Return back to the other side of the hole and take another stitch, going through both layers of fabric.

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You’re going to continue sewing back and forth, each time pulling the hole closed until you reach the other side. Tie off your thread. Now turn your pants inside out and trim the extra reinforcement fabric by your stitching. Be careful not to cut into the stitching itself.

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Once you finish taking your last stitch, you can tie off the thread and snip it close. Turn your garment right side out again and massage the fabric around where the hole used to be to help relax the fabric. You should also give it a quick press with steam to reduce the puckering.

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We hoped this tutorial helped you save a pair of jeans! Inspired to sew with Designer™? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Introducing Designer 40wt All-Purpose Polyester Thread

Maura Kang

When you need a thread you can count on, Designer knows how to get it done. This reliable 40wt all-purpose polyester is made for any general sewing, garment construction, and sergers. Strong and flexible with a soft texture, it’s practical for any everyday use.

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Fashion designers and professional dress makers love this thread for its strength and versatility. When you’re constructing clothes, an all-purpose polyester like Designer is your best choice. Because the thread has a little bit of flexibility to it, the seams will move with your body. Afterall, no one wants to hear the dreaded “pop, pop, pop” of stitches breaking when you raise your arms. This is something that can happen when sewing clothes together using cotton thread instead of a flexible all-purpose polyester, as cotton has little to no stretch to it.

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But Designer isn’t just limited to the needle. This is a fabulous serger thread that is perfect for finishing the raw edges of any project. Designer is both colorfast and safe to iron, even on high heat. And it can be safely used in washer and dryer machines without losing its strength and durability. We recommend a size 80/12 universal needle when sewing with Designer.

And the best part? Designer comes in a whopping 210 different colors. That means you’ll always be able to find the perfect color match to any project.

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Reach for Designer the next time you need a reliable general sewing thread or want to sew your own garments at home. Afterall, what holds your projects together is one of the most important factors, even when you can’t see it.

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Inspired to sew with Designer™? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

How to Sew with Stretch Fabric

Maura Kang

Stretch fabrics are the most commonly used for sewing garments as they are comfortable and move with your body. However, because of their stretch, they can be troublesome if you’re inexperienced sewing with them. We’ll cover our favourite tips and tools on making sewing with stretch fabrics a breeze.

Before you even begin sewing, get yourself acquainted with the fabric you’re using. There’s a huge variety of stretch fabrics out there, and they can be made from cotton, spandex, fleece, or likely a mix of materials. Touch the material and see if pulling in one direction gives way less than the other direction. Keep this in mind when cutting your pattern and deciding what direction you want to have more stretch. A 4-way stretch fabric will stretch the same in every direction.

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We always recommend washing the fabric before doing anything with it to prevent it from shrinking later.

When laying out your pattern, try to keep your pins within the seam allowance to prevent leaving obvious holes in the fabric. Some stretch fabrics will be more prone to this than others. Be careful when cutting out your pattern pieces and avoid stretching the fabric as you cut.

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A knitted jersey fabric will often curl on the edges. To flatten it, you can use a starch spray and press it.

A knitted jersey fabric will often curl on the edges. To flatten it, you can use a starch spray and press it.

When you’re ready to begin sewing, you want to make sure you’re choosing the best needle and thread for the job. If you’re sewing in a regular domestic machine, choose a polyester thread designed for clothing construction. We recommend this 40wt thread called Designer™. Not only is it strong, but it carries a small amount of stretch, making it ideal for stretchy fabrics and garment construction. Don’t go for cotton threads as they won’t stretch enough, meaning they are more prone to breaking when the fabric is pulled.

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Recommended construction thread is Designer™ 40wt all-purpose poly: https://shopwonderfil.com/product-category/designer/

For your needle, choose a ballpoint needle which has a rounded tip which helps part away the strands of the fabric. Because stretch fabrics have flex to it, this helps the needle glide through the fabric instead of punching its way through like with other fabrics. This avoids skipped stitches and damaging the fabric while you sew.

If your fabric is lightweight or tightly woven, you can also choose a stretch needle. The tip is more finely pointed, helping it slip between the weave of the fabric and also avoiding skipped stitches and damaging the more delicate fabric.

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Another option is a twin needle. These are perfect for sewing hems and giving your project a professional look.

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We recommend using the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine as it allows the fabric to stretch and retract with the thread. The twin needle will do two rows of zigzag stitching, offering a more secure stitch with a professional finish.

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 You can increase the stitch length slightly to a 2.5 to 3mm setting. The longer stitch makes it easier for the fabric to stretch. Remember to sew slowly and avoid pushing or pulling the fabric as it’s going through the machine to avoid distorting your pattern. If you find the fabric is having difficulty feeding through, you can lay a piece of tissue paper under the fabric for additional friction. The tissue paper can easily be torn away afterwards.

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If you own a serger, the cover stitch will give you the best results. Not only can it cover the raw edges of your fabric, it allows the fabric to retain a high level of stretch. Pairing a twin needle with the cover stitch on the serger will give you a beautiful and secure professional stitch that is perfect for finishing a rolled hem on sleeves, pants, or collars. 

If you use a wooly poly thread on the lower chain looper, your fabric will stay very elastic and soft against your skin. We used SoftLoc™, a tex 35 wooly poly thread that has a low lint finish and is incredibly soft. The best part is, it is not only safe to iron (even on high heat) but comes in 60 colors to best match your project. It is recommended for use on medium to heavy fabrics and is durable and colorfast.

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A wooly poly thread like SoftLoc™ should only be used in the serger loopers and not in the needle. A regular serger thread like Designer™ should be used in the needle with it. This is ideal for all stretchy fabrics, especially those with a lot of stretch, as the thread will easily stretch along with it.

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If you’re looking for a finer finish, SoftLoc™ is our recommended thread for rolled hems. A rolled hem with SoftLoc™ will create a soft and fine edge with no threads poking through.

Our recommended thread for rolled hems and upper and lower serger loopers is SoftLoc™ tex 35 wooly poly: https://shopwonderfil.com/product-category/softloc/

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We hope these tips make it easier for you to sew with stretchy fabrics! If you learned anything new from this video, or if you used any of these threads in your projects, let us know on social media! Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythread or on Faceback @WonderFil, or use #wonderfil to tag us.