Hemming Lightweight Fabrics With a Serger & Sewing Machine

We’ll show you the easiest way to make a rolled hem on chiffon fabric, or any other similar lightweight material. We’ll first demonstrate it on the serger, then with a domestic machine for those who don’t own a serger. Using the recommended materials and this technique, the result will be a beautiful rolled hem that looks just as professional as if it came from the store!

A lot of formalwear uses sheer, lightweight fabrics, and this method is a good way to keep the edge looking professional like it had never been modified. Apart from your machine, you’ll only need some small but important materials:

First, you’ll want to choose the right thread. We’ll be using a 100wt poly thread called InvisaFil, which is going to blend really well in the fabric so you don’t even see it. And because the thread is so fine, it will stitch more easily through the thin fabric, resulting in fewer ruffles. It’s important to use a very fine thread like this because apart from showing less, it also won’t weigh down the lightweight fabric either.

Because the thread is so fine, we’re also going to choose a needle with a smaller eye. Choose a size 60/8 or 70/10 microtex needle which works best on light fabrics.

Finally, I’m going to use a bobbin that’s been pre-wound with DecoBob thread. This is an 80wt poly thread that comes already pre-wound on a plastic sided bobbin which will pair well with the top thread. You can alternatively wind your own bobbin with the InvisaFil thread, just remember wind it slowly since the thin thread tends to float away. If you’re going to hem your fabric on a serger, obviously you won’t use a bobbin so you’ll want DecoBob thread on a spool for your lower loopers.

On a Serger: 

We are going to use a 3 thread rolled hem, with InvisaFil in the needle and upper looper, and DecoBob in the lower looper. Consult with your serger manual and adjust the stitch length and cutting blade to get a close narrow hem.

Once your machine is threaded, do a test run on similar fabric to make sure your fabric is not puckering. You may have to adjust your differential settings to get a flat, smooth edge. 

Mark your hem with a disappearing marking pen, and serge exactly along your marked line. This is the simplest method for a quick fine hem on chiffon or similar fine fabric.

On a Domestic Sewing Machine With a Rolled Hem:

If you want to hem fine fabric on a domestic machine, this two step method will help you achieve perfect results. Mark where you want your finished hem and cut 1” below the marked line. We will trim this closer later. Be sure to spread the fabric out flat and even as these types of fabrics can easily shift during cutting. Thread your machine with InvisaFil on top and DecoBob in the bobbin. Now you’re ready to sew!

Using your fingers, tuck the edge of the fabric over 1/8” below the finished hem length and stitch very close to this folded edge. Do this all the way to the end of the fabric. If you’re hemming a sleeve or skirt, or anything where your piece is a loop, we recommend starting and ending on the seam to help hide the backstitching.

When you’re done, use a pair of sharp, fine tipped scissors to cut away the remaining fabric as close as you can to your line of stitching without snipping into the stitching itself. Exercise caution so you don’t accidentally snip over your seam. Do this all the way to the end.

Press all the way around to sink the stitches into the fabric and smooth any puckers.

Once you’ve finished trimming the excess fabric and pressing, tuck the edge 1/8” over one more time (along the finished hem marking) and stitch it down again over the original line of stitching to complete your rolled hem. If you have trouble tucking the edge over with your fingers and keeping the 1/8” length consistent, you can press the edge down with an iron before sewing.

That’s all there is to it! You can see how little the thread shows in the finished hem as well how flat the edge sits because the fine thread doesn’t add extra bulk. As most hems have a curved edge, doing the hem in two steps helps keep your hem even and consistent and eliminates any problems. These materials combined with these simple techniques are all you need for perfect, professional hemming.

(Left: done with serger. Right: done with domestic machine.)

Inspired to sew? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/ for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase WonderFil threads from. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Hand Stitched Buttonholes Tutorial

With all the beautiful machine buttonhole stitches out there right now, why bother making hand stitched buttonholes? Sometimes, you want to add a beautiful vintage look to your project. Or you might be working with a very heavy coat fabric and are struggling to get nice machine buttonholes. Or maybe you just want to add that extra special look to a project.

Handstitching your buttonholes can add a vintage look to your finished project, and choosing the right threads will give it a professional polish that will make it worth the extra effort. We’ll show you step by step how to mark, stitch, and cut your buttonholes for perfect results each time.

We are going to use this extra fine 100wt thread, InvisaFil, to stitch together the edges of our buttonhole. As the thread will be sitting under the decorative stitches, we don’t want it to show or add any bulk. Invisafil is a 100 wt polyester, so, while it is strong, the stitches will disappear in the fabric and won’t be seen.

We will also need a gimp thread to add extra strength and a bit of lift to our buttonhole. For this we will be using HomeDec. HomeDec is a very strong polyester thread that comes in three weights (30wt, 40wt, 60wt). We will be using the heaviest 40wt for this project, in a color to match the fabric.

For our decorative buttonhole stitch, we will use this 12wt double gassed cotton thread called Spagetti. The tight twist will make stitching easy, and the 12 weight thread gives a nice bold finish to the buttonhole.

We will need two hand stitching needles. For the fine InvisaFil thread, we’ll be using a #11 sharp needle. And for stitching with the heavier Spagetti, we will use a #7 embroidery needle which has a larger eye to accommodate the thicker thread.

Using a spacing tool and some tailors chalk, evenly mark the starting point of each of your buttonholes.

As buttons all have different depths, here is a trick to mark the length of your buttonhole. Wrap your chosen button with a piece of twill tape, going around the fullest part of the button. Pin the ends of the twill tape.

Now pull out the button and lay the tape flat. The distance from the pin to the folded edge will be the length of your buttonhole.

Measure this length and mark the end of each buttonhole. Use a straight edge and some chalk to mark the buttonhole line.

Using a buttonhole cutting tool like this one by Clover, cut along this line. Cut and finish only one buttonhole at a time.

Thread a #11 sharp needle with InvisiFil, tying an overhand knot right behind the eye of the needle to prevent it from unthreading. Now begin to do a close whipstitch all along the open edge of your buttonhole, to hold the layers together.

Next, thread a #7 embroidery needle with a length of the Spagetti. Now, cut a length of the HomeDec thread twice the length of the buttonhole plus another 1 inch. (We’re using a bright, contrasting color in this demonstration so you can see it, but if you do it yourself, you should choose a thread color that matches the fabric). Hold or tape the gimp thread along the cut edge of the buttonhole. Starting at the back end of the buttonhole begin working a buttonhole stitch along the edge, catching the gimp thread underneath your stitch.

Work the buttonhole stitches close together to for a nice pearl edge along the cut edge of the buttonhole. When you get to the front end of the buttonhole work 3 or four stitches around the curve, before going back down the other side of the buttonhole, making sure to still catch the gimp thread underneath.

When you are back at your starting point, work a tack stitch of 3 to 4 stitches across the width of the buttonhole.  Pull your thread to the underside and thread the end through the under side of your stitches before trimming it off. Thread the gimp thread through the large eye needle thread it to the underside, and cut it off. Repeat this for all of your buttonholes.

That is all there is to it. While this is a bit time consuming, it will definitely add a special touch to your project. Pictured below is a finished buttonhole with a gimp thread that matches the color of the fabric.

Inspired to sew with WonderFil threads? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up for our free newsletter to receive more educational sewing tips, tutorials, and free patterns. Register by clicking here! We’ll see you again next time!

9 Ways to Sew With Fine 80-100wt Threads

You may have seen these ultra-fine 80 and 100wt threads on store shelves, but what would you want to use such a thin thread for? As it turns out, these thin threads not only have a ton of great uses, they can also perform better for certain techniques than a regular medium weight 40 or 50wt thread would. We’ll show you when to use these threads and why you should choose them.

Let’s take a quick look at these two 80 and 100wt threads by WonderFil. This 80wt thread is called DecoBob, and the 100wt thread is called InvisaFil. They are both made from cottonized polyester, which is a 100% polyester thread that has been treated to take the stretch and shine out of it, giving the thread a matte finish that hides in the fabric. Because they’re made from polyester, you’ll find they’re actually quite strong despite their size. So, how can you use them?

1.Piecing

This is one of the most common techniques that comes up for sewers, but have you ever considered what thread to use when doing it? As it turns out, the choice of thread will make a huge difference. We always recommend using an 80wt thread in the top and bottom for piecing, such as DecoBob, because the thread won’t add any additional bulk in the seams. This allows the pieced fabric to sit flatter and it makes it easier to match up your patterns. The difference is actually visible.

This thread is especially good with foundation paper piecing. We recommend lowering the stitch length to around 1.8 for added security. This also makes it easier to tear the paper out without pulling out your stitching by accident.

2.Quilting

Both 80wt DecoBob and 100wt InvisaFil are a great choice for quilting when you don’t want the thread to show. We used a light grey InvisaFil to quilt this multi-colored quilt, and as you can see, the fine thread blends into every colour. You only need to choose a basic or slightly match the color to the fabric for it to blend in, making it easy to show the texture of your quilting without showing the thread itself.

InvisaFil is especially fantastic for micro quilting or any dense quilting. Because the thread is so fine, it doesn’t add a lot of bulk to the fabric. This means you can stitch densely, and your quilt will still stay soft and flexible.

3. Machine embroidery

Most embroidery threads are a medium 40wt. However, delicate, highly detailed designs, monogramming, and small embroideries will look even better when used with InvisaFil™ thread. This ultra-thin thread makes it possible to keep all the details in small or highly detailed designs that a regular 40wt embroidery thread won’t be able to. This includes lettering as the fine thread will keep edges looking sharp and crisp.

4.Bobbin thread

We always recommend using a finer thread weight in the bobbin with any thread on top. Choosing an 80wt thread like DecoBob will greatly improve your tension and stitch quality as this finer thread won’t fight for tension in the machine with the top thread. This is especially important when you’re using a thicker thread in the top, such as a 12wt, as you really don’t want to be putting that much bulk in your seams and through the fabric. An 80wt thread like DecoBob will allow your stitching to sit flatter while staying strong enough to be used for any sewing technique.

DecoBob pre-wound bobbins in size Class 15

5.Stitch in the ditch

Many sewers will reach for a monopoly thread to sew invisible stitches, you know, those threads that are translucent and often come in clear or smoke. However these threads can still be seen under bright lights and are stiff and inflexible when sewn with. This is why we recommend using InvisaFil 100wt thread instead. You only need to choose a basic color like grey, or one that slightly matches the color of the fabric for it to blend right in. So even if you sew out of your ditch, this forgiving thread won’t show up anyway.

6.English paper piecing

This hand technique relies on stitching pieces of fabric wrapped around paper pieces together. Because these pieces sit tightly against each other, a finer thread will make a big difference as to how tightly the pieces lay against one another, and also how much the thread will show up. This is why we recommend using 100wt InvisaFil as opposed to a regular medium weight 40 or 50wt thread. If you’re someone who tends to tug on their thread when you sew and frequently run into thread breaks when doing EPP, then you can use DecoBob 80wt thread instead. We also recommend DecoBob for those who have arthritis in their hands and struggle more with using the finer 100wt InvisaFil.

7.Hand and machine appliqué

If you’re doing decorative appliqué and don’t want the stitches to be seen, InvisaFil has your back. When doing needle turn appliqué, your appliqué pieces will sit a lot flatter against the background, and the 100wt thread is a master at disappearing. You can even appliqué your pieces by machine using a tiny zigzag stitch. Because InvisaFil is so small, you only need to match the colors to the fabric just slightly and they still won’t be seen. How impressive is that?

8.Buttonholes

Whether you’re making your buttonholes by hand or machine, these finer threads are a great choice. Should you be sewing your buttonholes by hand, use InvisaFil 100wt thread to stitch together the raw edges of your buttonholes, before going over them with a thicker decorative thread on top. The finer thread will disappear into the fabric so you won’t see it holding the edges together. If you’re doing your buttonholes by machine, then you can choose DecoBob 80wt thread to create nice tight stitches without the thread clumping up.

9.Sewing & serging sheer or lightweight fabrics

Chiffon, organza, and tulle are some of many lightweight and sheer fabrics you may come across. These fabrics can be difficult to work with, but using a fine 80 or 100wt thread allows the fabric to not be weighed down by the stitching, nor will the stitches show up in sheer fabrics. Whether you’re serging hems, doing construction sewing, or any kind of general sewing with these fabrics, always choose DecoBob or InvisaFil to do it with.

We hope this list gives you some insight into where you can use these threads in your projects, and why we recommend them! Inspired to sew with InvisaFil and DecoBob? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up for our free newsletter to receive more educational sewing tips, tutorials, and free patterns. Register by clicking here! We’ll see you again next time!

Sewing the BEST Stitch in the Ditch Tutorial

Stitch in the ditch is a technique where you sew directly in the fold of a seam to hide your stitching, while securing your quilt block down. This way you don’t see any quilting around that area of the block. If you’re looking to sew stitch in the ditch on your latest quilt or project, we have the best tips on making it look invisible and perfect. Let’s take a closer look!

The first and most important thing to do before you even begin is choosing the right thread. We recommend using InvisaFil, a 100wt cottonized polyester thread that is incredibly fine and hides in the fabric wherever it’s stitched. A basic colour such as grey, or a color that even slightly matches the fabric will be enough for it to hide almost completely. This will ensure your stitching shows as absolutely little as possible, even if you accidentally sew outside the seam.

Because this thread is finer, you can choose a 70/10 or 80/12 size needle. This smaller needle will punch a smaller hole in the fabric so that the fine thread won’t be sitting in too large of a hole.

You can use the same thread in the bobbin, or alternatively a similar thread called DecoBob. DecoBob is also a cottonized polyester thread, but it’s marginally thicker at 80wt. This gives your stitching a slightly stronger hold and it also is available as convenient pre-wound bobbins. These pre-wounds will give you a better stitch consistency and even tension.

Choose a machine foot that is marks the center needle position. This makes it easier to line up the seam you’ll be stitching into.

Start from one end of the seam and carefully sew all the way to the end. Don’t forget to back stitch at the beginning and end.

Don’t worry if you fall off your path a little, if you’re using the correct thread then it won’t even be visible.

That’s actually all there is to it! Simply choosing the right tools for the job is the best way to get perfect results, even if it’s your first time trying this technique.

You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Easy English Paper Piecing Tutorial

English paper piecing is hand sewing technique where fabric is wrapped around a paper template to create a precise design. These pieces are then hand stitched together into a pattern that can be used in quilts, crafts, or decorating any sewing project you like!

It’s great for designs that don’t have long straight sides, but instead have numerous set-in corners, such as hexagons or diamonds. It’s also very portable, meaning you can work on your project while travelling, and is wonderful for meditative hand stitching.

WonderFil has come up with a popular thread that will allow paper piecers to have the tightest, flattest seams possible. You may have heard of it. It’s called InvisaFil, and this is a 100wt thread, meaning it’s incredibly fine. It disappears almost completely into your fabric, and because it’s so thin, it allows your pieces to sit snugly against each other.

Since we’re using such a fine thread, we want to use a needle with a smaller eye. A #11 or #12 sharps needle will work well since the eye is small enough that the thread won’t slip out easily.

You’ll also want your paper template which can be purchased pre-cut like these, or you can print your template on cardstock and cut them out. Paper piecing templates are available in all shapes and sizes, but today we’re going to be demonstrating with the traditional hexagon.

You will also need your fabric, which will need to be cut larger than the template to allow for turn over. We like to cut them with a generous quarter inch allowance on each side.

As an option, some people like to use fabric glue to shape the fabric around the template. The advantage of glue is that it is fairly easy to prepare your pieces. The disadvantage is that it is a bit harder to remove the paper backing once you’ve joined the pieces. The alternative is putting small stitches in the fabric behind the piece, so we’ll demonstrate both methods so you can choose the best one for yourself.

Now to begin, we’re going to prepare the hexagons. Here is our template and fabric, and you can see that we’ve cut our fabric larger than the template. First, we’re going to demonstrate using glue to attach the fabric to the paper.

Place your fabric right side down and center the template on the fabric. Run a line of glue along one side of the template and press the fabric down, making sure to keep the template centered and the fabric wrapped tightly over the edge.

Now run another line of glue along the joining side of the hexagon, making sure to get glue on the folded fabric from the previous fold. Push the corner in as you press this row down, once again keeping your template centered and the fabric firmly folded over.

Continue along each side until all the sides have been secured down.

Now we’re going to show you how to hand stitch the fabric to the template. Here’s our threaded needle, and when we’re using a fine thread like InvisaFil, we like to make a small hand-over knot in the thread right behind the eye of the needle. Because the thread is so fine, this won’t impede your stitching, but will prevent your thread from slipping out of the needle.

Now we’re going to knot the tail of the thread with a good knot. When you take your first stitch, take care to pull gently so as not to pull the knot through the fabric. When you take a few stitches in one spot, your thread will be secure.

First, finger press one side down, keeping your template centered. Now use your finger to push the corner in and finger press the next side over. Holding the corner down with your finger, take a few small stitches in the corner using a simple whip stitch.

Moving to the next corner, repeat this process. The thread will run along the side of the hexagon, parallel to the edge. Pull your stitches firmly to keep your edges tight and continue to work around your piece until all six sides are secure.

When you’re finished, take a few more small stitches in the first corner, knot the thread, and trim.

Now that we’re done our first piece, we’re going to give it a quick press with the iron to further sharpen the edges.

We’re now going to join the pieces together. First lay out your design and decide where you want to place each piece. Lay your adjoining pieces right sides together, working from the centre out. Thread and knot your needle as we showed before.

Starting exactly in the corner, take a few small whip stitches making sure to only catch a tiny amount of the fabric from both sides. Now you can begin working your way across, doing a small whipstitch and again trying to catch only a tiny amount of both fabrics with each stitch.

When you reach the next corner, take a few small stitches again in the exact corner of both sides. This will secure your stitching so it doesn’t come out. Your first two pieces are attached!

Now you can attach your next piece to the centre piece in the same manner again. Remember again to stitch in the exact corner and catch both ends of fabric. Continue until all the pieces are joined to the centre piece.

To join two of the outside pieces together, you’ll notice that we won’t be able to place this piece right sides together like before, so we’ll need to work from the underside and join them again with a whip stitch. Folding them slightly towards each other will make it easier.

After your design is completely, you’ll want to remove the paper templates. Sticking a pin into them will help you to pop them out. If you used glue, a light spray of water can help you pull the template free.

Not all designs have a circular flower, but once you master this, you’ll be able to play with your layout and paper piece any shapes in any arrangement! Leave a comment if you have any questions or something to share about your EPP experience. 

You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Differences Between Thread Weights: Where to Use Them & How They Look

Your standard thread will often come in a medium 40 or 50 weight. But a huge variety of other threads exist in super fine 100 weight, or super chunky 3 weight options too. In this video, you’ll learn how these different weights of thread will show up (or not be seen at all) and where they can be used for the best advantage. Sew like a pro when you understand how thread weight influences your stitching!

Whether you want the thread to blend in or sparkle and show off, choosing the right thread will make all the difference in your projects.

1.     Medium Weight Threads

These are the types of threads that you will most frequently find, most often 40 or 50wt. They can be used for most construction, quilting, machine embroidery, sergers, and general purpose sewing.

Medium weight threads can be made from all types of materials including cotton, polyester, rayon, and even metallic. This thread weight will blend or show up depending on what the material is made from. Therefore, a cotton will blend more than a metallic will. But if you really don’t want your thread to show, you may wish to consider a different weight.

2.     Fine Weight Threads

Fine weight threads run from 60wt to 100wt. These smaller threads are ideal for intricate work such as micro quilting and fine detailed machine embroidery like freestanding designs or monograming.

They can be made from cotton on the larger end to polyester on the finer end. The fine threads blend better and take up less space, so they’re ideal for hand & machine appliqué, stitch in the ditch, English paper piecing, and micro quilting. Dense quilting will also leave quilts softer, more flexible and lighter as the thread doesn’t take up as much space or add as much weight.

Quilting with InvisaFil™ 100wt, a light grey blends in with every colour.

This 80wt cottonized polyester thread called DecoBob is our favourite piecing and bobbin thread. Because it’s so fine, it makes seams lay flatter and crisper when piecing. This is especially useful when it comes to foundation paper piecing or when you need to accurately match up patterns and blocks. It’s also incredibly strong, making it a reliable choice to hold your quilts and projects together.

Piecing with DecoBob™ 80wt.

As a bobbin thread it is unsurpassed. The fine thread can be paired with any top thread including thicker threads. It greatly reduces tension problems, lets your seams lay flatter and look more professional, and as a bonus, allows your bobbin to hold more thread since the fine thread takes up less space.

3.     Heavy Weight Threads

Heavy weight threads range from 12wt – 3wt. 12wt threads can still fit through the eye of a sewing machine needle, so you can do some incredible stitching with this thicker thread. Whereas 8wt and heavier threads are not recommended as a top thread.

Use 12wt for bold machine quilting, big stitch hand quilting, thread painting, decorative stitching, hand embroidery, sashiko, big stitch hand quilting, crafts, and even hemming jeans. When using it on the machine the thicker thread will stand up from the fabric giving you a wonderful textural effect.

Decorative stitching with Fruitti™ 12wt cotton thread.

8wt threads and thicker the most commonly used for hand embroidery. Even though they’re too thick to fit through the sewing machine needle, you can still do couching and bobbin work with it on a machine, or use it in the loopers of a serger. 8wt and thicker can also be used for the same things as 12wt, in addition to crochet and knitting.

Still have questions about thread weight? Let us know in the comments. Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Introducing InvisaFil™ Ultra Fine 100wt Cottonized Polyester Thread

Who knew a thread could get so small? Even though this thread is ever so little, it can make a huge impact in your projects. InvisaFil™ is fast becoming a favourite staple thread for English paper piecing, quilting, and needle turn appliqué, and has even been made into packs by Laundry Basket Quilts. Let’s take a look at what makes this thread so special.

You won’t find many threads on the market that are this thin. InvisaFil™ is a 100wt thread, which is incredibly fine. This is WonderFil’s solution to monopoly threads. You know, those plastic fishing wire type threads that come in clear or smoke. While those threads can hide in the fabric, they can still be seen under bright lights, and dense stitching done with them will leave your project feeling stiff and inflexible.

Quilting with monopoly

InvisaFil™ was created to negate these issues found in monopoly thread. Because the thread is so small, it not only hides incredibly well in the fabric, but it also doesn’t take up a whole lot of space in the fabric either. That means you can do a whole lot of dense stitching and micro quilting, and your fabric will still be soft and flexible.

It also comes in 60 different colors to better match your project. But you don’t need to worry about matching the thread too closely. InvisaFil™ in a neutral colour knows how to blend across a huge variety of shades. We used a light grey to quilt across this entire quilt, and as you can see, it blends across every color without a hitch.

Because it disappears so easily, this is the ideal thread for wherever you don’t want the thread to show. So you’ll just see the texture of your quilting, rather than the thread in the quilting. This also makes InvisaFil™ perfect for stitch in the ditch, because you won’t even see the thread if it falls out of the ditch. If you set your machine to a tiny zigzag stitch, it does an amazing job for invisible machine appliqué. You’ll need your glasses to even see the stitching!

InvisaFil™ works great on domestic sewing machines, midarms, longarms, and even embroidery machines. And in machine embroidery, this thread really loves to show off what it can do.

Delicate, highly detailed designs, monogramming, and small embroideries look even better when used with InvisaFil™ thread. This ultra-thin thread makes it possible to keep all the details in small or highly detailed designs that a regular 40wt embroidery thread won’t be able to. This includes lettering as the fine thread will keep edges looking sharp and crisp.

But InvisaFil™ isn’t just for machines, it’s also hugely popular for hand techniques such as hand appliqué or English paper piecing. As mentioned before, InvisaFil™ doesn’t take up a lot of space in the fabric, and it’s a master at hiding. Therefore, all your EPP pieces will sit tightly together without any thread showing between them. That means you can easily get away with a simple and quick whip stitch to do your EPP with.

The same rules apply with needle turned appliqué. Not only will your pieces sit flat and tidy, but you won’t even see the thread. Sometimes choosing the best tools for the technique is all you need for better results.

If you’re stitching with InvisaFil™ by hand, we recommend using a #11 or #12 sharps needle. If you’ll be sewing with it in the machine, you can use a 60/8, 70/10, or 80/12 machine needle. Inspired to sew with InvisaFil™? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from.

Exploring Polyester Thread: Varieties, Differences, & Where to Use Them

Have you ever noticed all the varieties of polyester thread on the market? While it all might be made from the same base material, polyester comes in all kinds of different treatments and finishes, giving them completely different uses and appearances. In this video we’ll go through a wide variety of polyester threads you’ll come across, as well as how you should use them and how they’ll look when stitched out.

Trilobal Polyester
Trilobal polyester is a gorgeous and shiny thread that loves to show off. The word “tri” in trilobal refers to the shape of the thread which is actually triangular in shape. The flat sides of the thread reflect light much better than a round thread does, making it a shinier thread that is meant to stand out.

Use trilobal polyester in the embroidery machine for gorgeous results. It’s also a popular quilting thread when you want your quilting to have a little pop of shine. Because this thread is made to stand out, it’s a great choice for outlining, thread painting, or appliquéing a design down, such as with a satin stitch.

WonderFil Trilobal Polyester Thread Lines:
- FabuLux™ 40wt (variegated & neon colors)
- Polyfast™ 40wt (solid colors)

---

Monopoly or Monofilament Thread
This is a thread commonly used when you want to sew something without the thread showing. These threads usually come in clear or smoke and are semi-translucent to help them blend into the fabric. However due to the limited colour range of these threads, they can still be seen when sewn over contrasting patches in the fabric and under bright lights. They are also stiff and inflexible when sewn in the fabric, making it unideal for dense stitching, and are semi-reflective, showing up under bright lights. Many people use these threads for quilting, stitch in the ditch, appliqué, or couching.

WonderFil does not manufacture monopoly thread as we consider a lightweight cottonized polyester to perform the same techniques at a consistently higher quality.

---

Cottonized Polyester
Cottonized polyester is particularly unique because it undergoes a special treatment to take out most of the shine from the thread. This treatment also removes the stretch from it, making it incredibly easy to sew with and making it ideal for piecing and quilting when stretch in the thread is unwanted. While it might be called a cottonized polyester, there is actually zero cotton in the thread. This 100% polyester material is simply called this due to its matte finish and lack of stretch, meaning it looks similar to and sews easily in the machine like a cotton does.

Finer cottonized polyester threads keep their strength even at such a small size, which does wonders for piecing, especially foundation paper piecing and English paper piecing as the thread takes up significantly less bulk in the fabric, allowing seams to lay incredibly flat. And because the thread carries more of a matte finish, it hides in the fabric very easily, blending into the colours behind it with ease. This makes it an ideal replacement for monopoly threads that have an inflexible plastic feel and can still be seen under bright lights.

Finer cottonized polyester threads are great for quilting when you just want the texture of the quilting to show and not the thread. It’s also perfect for stitch in the ditch, bobbin thread for any top weight thread, and can even be used in the embroidery machine with better results in digitized lace and highly detailed or shrunken designs. Cottonized polyester also comes in medium weights and is a hugely popular material for longarm and midarm quilting. This easy to sew thread is recommended for beginner quilters, or those that want a strong and reliable thread that can sew in multi-directions.

WonderFil Cottonized Polyester Thread Lines:
- InvisaFil™ 100wt
- DecoBob™ 80wt
- Master Quilter™ 40wt

---

Wooly Poly
This fun thread is incredibly flexible, being able to stretch and shrink depending on if it’s relaxed or pulled taught. They’re designed to be used in the serger and its stretching properties make it universally adored for knits and stretch fabrics. Wooly poly thread is recommended for rolled hems, garments, dance wear, swim suits, fitness wear, napkins, and finishing the edges of stretch materials.

WonderFil Wooly Poly Thread Lines:
- SoftLoc™ tex 35

---

Cotton Wrapped Poly Thread
Because polyester is such a strong and easy thread to sew with, it’s highly preferred by many sewists. However, what if you want to sew with the ease of a polyester thread, but prefer the look of cotton? Thread manufacturers have come up with thread that has a polyester core but is wrapped on the outside with cotton fibre. This hybrid thread combines both materials into an ideal sewing thread with the natural look and finish of cotton. These threads are most commonly used for quilting and general sewing, and are frequently used on longarm and midarm machines.

WonderFil Cotton Wrapped Poly Thread Lines:
- Ultima™ 40wt

---

Enhanced Multi-Filament Polyester
An enhanced multi-filament polyester is designed for ultra-strength, best used for heavy-duty sewing on thicker materials such as leather, pleather, vinyl, cork, and upholstery fabrics. You’ll want to choose this thread when you want to give your projects more durability, such as when sewing wallets, bags, purses, or home décor. In a thicker weight, it also provides a beautiful decorative stitch on your projects.

For best results, we recommend pairing any weight of an enhanced multi-filament polyester on the top with a 60wt of the same thread in the bobbin. Because this thread is so incredibly strong, it should be used with itself top and bottom, with the lighter 60wt in the bottom to help seams lay flatter and promote better machine tension for higher quality stitches.

WonderFil Enhanced Multi-Filament Polyester Thread Lines:
- HomeDec™ 30wt, 40wt, 60wt

---

All-Purpose Polyester
This is the most generic and one of the most commonly found polyesters. It isn’t made to be used to show off, but rather behind the scenes in constructing garments, dresses and wedding gowns, and in sergers. This thread carries a little bit of stretch to it, which is great for clothing, as it has a little more give in the seams. No one wants to hear the dreaded “pop-popping” of stitches being snapped out. An all-purpose polyester tends to be lower in cost, versatile, and can be used for any general sewing.

WonderFil All-Purpose Polyester Thread Lines:
- Designer™ 40wt

Tell us how you like to use polyester threads in your own projects, or share something you made with us using WonderFil threads! Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythread or on Faceback @WonderFil, or use #wonderfil to tag us.

Successfully Sew with Fine 80-100wt Threads

Have you ever heard about 80 and 100wt thread? These ultra-fine threads are totally game changers when it comes to piecing, appliqué, quilting, and even as a bobbin thread. However, since most sewing machines are calibrated for medium weight thread, such as a 40 or 50wt, sometimes you may need to make some minor adjustments to your machine when sewing with this thread.

You probably won’t need to follow everything on our list to sew with 80 and 100wt thread. Most of the time these threads will sew beautifully without any trouble. However not all sewing machines are made alike, so what may work on one machine will need a setting adjustment on another. This is a list of suggestions and what issues can come up when sewing with 80 and 100wt thread, so you can sew with beautiful results.

Let’s take a closer look at these 80 and 100wt threads in comparison to a regular 50wt thread. You can see that they’re much finer, however WonderFil manufactures these threads from a cottonized polyester. This means the threads are strong and have the stretch removed from them, making them as easy to sew with as cotton thread does in the machine. They also take on more of a matte finish so they hide in the fabric a lot better.

We always recommend a needle size of 70/10 or 80/12 when working with these threads. A bigger needle will punch a hole that’s too large for the thread, so the thread will be sitting in a hole that’s too large for it to fill, resulting in an ugly stitch. The thread will also move around more in the larger eye, so a smaller eye will give you more control of the thread.

Choose a needle depending on the technique you’ll be using, or the fabric choice. For most general sewing, a universal needle works just fine. If you’re quilting, opt for a quilting needle. Or if you’re sewing with fusibles, choose a super non-stick needle, as these needles will help the thread glide through the sticky material and reduce friction.

You won’t normally need to adjust your tension with these threads and can often leave your machine on its regular tension settings. However, if you find that your bobbin thread is pulling to the top, that means you’ll need to loosen your top tension. If your top thread is pulling to the bottom, it means the bottom tension is too tight. Always sew a test piece on a scrap piece before sewing on your actual project.

Using a needle that’s too large for the thread will result in ugly holes that the thread won’t fill.

If your bobbin thread is pulling through to the top, you’ll need to loosen the top tension. If the top thread is pulling through to the bottom, you’ll need to loosen the bobbin tension.

Consider your bobbin thread when sewing with super fine threads. We recommend DecoBob™, an 80wt cottonized polyester, as your ideal bobbin thread, due to the fact that it greatly reduces tension problems and helps seams lay flatter since the thread doesn’t take up a lot of space. While we recommend DecoBob in the bobbin with any top thread, this is especially important if you’re using a super fine thread in the top. Using a much thicker thread in the bobbin can lead to bulky seams, tension problems, and a poor stitch quality.

There are some instances where it’s okay to use 100wt both in the top and bobbin. This is InvisaFil™, a 100wt cottonized polyester thread, and it’s just a little finer than DecoBob. Because it’s thinner, it won’t be quite as strong as DecoBob, but that’s okay if you’re stitching something decorative like a machine embroidery design. For anything that will require more utility, for example free motion quilting using InvisaFil™ in the top, then we suggest using DecoBob™ in the bobbin since your quilting will hold up better.

When winding these threads on a bobbin, try to go slower if you can. Because these threads are so fine and light, they tend to fly away a little and can cause tension issues when sewing. If you can, choose bobbins that come pre-wound with DecoBob™. These are available in standard sizes class 15, size L, and size M. They always come perfectly wound at the factory and fit more thread than when you wind a bobbin yourself, so you’ll have the benefit of a long-lasting bobbin that always has perfectly consistent tension.

If you are sewing anything with a single stitch, we recommend using a single stitch plate on your machine. Single stitch plates have just one little hole in the middle and is not made for any side to side stitching. This will give you more control over your thread because it will only be directed through this hole.

Single stitch plate.

Side-to-side stitching plate.

A thread plate made for decorative stitches, or any side to side stitching, will allow the thread to move around more, so the backside of your stitching can sometimes turn out not looking as nice. This can be true for any thread but is more noticeable with finer threads. This is especially important if you’re doing machine embroidery because of the speed it moves at. Single stitch plates don’t always come with a machine but can be purchased separately. These are just as easy to change and replace as a needle.

When setting the stitch length on your machine, the number displayed is in units of millimeters. So, if your stitch length is set at 2, it means you’ll have a 2 millimeter stitch length. When working with these super fine threads, we recommend you drop the stitch length down to 1.8, especially if you’re doing foundation paper piecing. Because the thread is smaller, a shorter stitch length will help a great deal for making strong, firm stitches. You’ll notice the difference with foundation paper piecing as pulling the paper out won’t distort your stitching as much as it would if you had a regular stitch length.

DecoBob™ and InvisaFil™ both come on cross-wound spools. Cross-wound refers to the direction the thread is wound in, in this case you can see they are wound around the spool at an angle. Cross-wound threads should always go on your machine on the horizontal spool pin as the thread draws best as it is pulled from the direction at the top of the spool.

If you were to put a cross-wound spool on your vertical spool pin, you can see the thread now draws from the side of the spool. But because the thread is cross-wound, it creates an extra drag as it draws, which will give you tension changes and affect the quality of your stitch. Only stack wound threads should be placed on the vertical spool pin, which is when the thread is wound straight across.

Here’s some issues that might come up, and how to resolve them. 

If you find the thread is shredding or breaking, it can be caused by a few different things. If you’re already using the correct size needle, think about when you last changed it. Most regular needles need to be changed after 8 hours of sewing. A dull needle will not pierce correctly and will need to be replaced.

A needle that has a burr on it can also cause thread breaks. You can also check that the needle is pushed in all the way as otherwise, it will be too long and caused skipped stitches or thread breaks. A bent needle can also knock out the timing on your machine as the bobbin won’t grab the top thread properly and miss. This will also result in skipped stitches.

Another reason you might experience thread breaks could simply be that you’re sewing too fast. Slow the speed on your machine. If you continue to experience thread breaks, play with your tension settings and check your needle for any of the issues we just mentioned.

Because DecoBob™ is polyester, it’s a very strong thread that is actually stronger than a 60wt cotton. This is why we recommend it as your go-to utility piecing and bobbin thread. As the thread is much finer, it reduces tension problems and makes piecing look flatter, more professional, and makes it easier to line up your patterns.

InvisaFil™ is our solution to monopoly invisible threads. You know, that fishing wire thread that’s often a pain to sew with. InvisaFil™ is WonderFil’s finest thread line at 100wt, and because it’s so thin, it brings in a lot of other benefits that monopoly invisible thread won’t.

Because it’s so thin, it makes appliqué lay super flat. The thread also just disappears into the fabric, which is great for any application where you don’t want the thread to show. Apart from appliqué, it’s also amazing for stitch in the ditch where if you fall off your path, you won’t even see it. And also for any quilting where you need a thread to blend across multiple colours. On this quilt, we used a light grey InvisaFil™ colour to quilt the entire piece, but it just blends into every colour.

You can also use DecoBob™ and InvisaFil™ for machine embroidery, and you’ll find that these threads make a noticeable difference. We embroidered the same lace pattern using a 50wt thread and then again with DecoBob™ 80wt. Because the thread takes up less space, you’ll see that the pattern is less thick and more visible when using DecoBob.

InvisaFil is also fantastic for any smaller, detailed embroidery. You can see the difference when using a 40wt embroidery thread, then how much more detail you can keep at a much smaller scale when using 100wt InvisaFil™. It’s also fantastic for any embroidered lettering as the thread is able to give you straight, crisp edges that can’t be achieved with 40wt thread.

Have you used 80 or 100wt threads in your sewing machine? If you want to share how you used DecoBob™ or InvisaFil™ in your projects, let us know on social media! Message us on Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythread or on Faceback @WonderFil, or use #wonderfil to tag us.